WINTER TERM IRELAND 2012: Information Sheet:

Instructors: Hank Nuwer  (738-8745) and Ray Begovich (738-8209)
hnuwer@franklincollege.edu  and rbegovich@franklincollege.eduOffices: Shirk Hall, Pulliam School of Journalism
When will classes be held? MTWTH 9-12 a.m. and 1-4 p.m. [maximum] in Shirk Hall 114
Course Title: Ireland: Immersion in Literature, History & the Arts

Description: Experience a  coast-to-coast learning adventure across one of Europe's most beautiful landscapes.
Students study some of the English-speaking world's greatest literature, and  visit the sites of the most moving  – and violent – events in Irish history.  Travelers will experience  the thrill of Ireland's big cities and the charm of the Emerald Isle's country villages. Ireland's visual arts treasures and its contemporary performing arts scene .
Best of all,  thrill to plenty of up-close and personal encounters with the friendly Irish people.
Contact group leaders Ray Begovich and Hank Nuwer in Shirk Hall or email your interest to Hank Nuwer.  This class will fill fast and has an enrollment cap.
Rational for Class and Catalog Description: The thrust of the class is a reflection on major historical events and literary connections related to Ireland’s revolutions and devotion to its poets, authors, playwrights and cultural heroes. Much of the class focuses on the 1916 Rebellion and its crushing by the British military, but events leading up to 1916 such as the Potato Famine and events following such as the rise of the IRA are an integral part of this class. This extremely packed and demanding course will include classroom readings, mass media depictions (particularly 1916) and out-of-classroom visits to Ireland museums, historic sites, shrines and museums.  Required readings (including a staged radio play) will be
supplemented by movies, documentary footage, songs, news stories, poems, plays and fiction.

Goal: The overall thrust will be to contemplate and to assess the character of the Irish people, including the effects of Irish immigration to the United States.  Students will debate the spirit of revolution in the United States and Ireland and its political implications and human toll.

Cost: Anticipated $3,100 at this time. Obviously we want to nail down airfare to Dublin before gas prices jump again.  Price includes lodging and daily hearty breakfasts, plus admission tickets to museums and cultural events.  How do I secure a position? Get first deposit of $1,000 to Business Office asap.
 





SYLLABUS FOR JANUARY 2012

Instructors:


Hank Nuwer, M.A. Doctor of Humane Letters
Shirk 204, Pulliam School of Journalism 317 738 8738
hnuwer@franklincollege.edu or hnuwer@hnaknuwer.com
Nuwer is on duty


Dr. Ray Begovich, Pulliam School of Journalism, Shirk Hall; 738-8209
Rbegovich@franklincollege.edu
Dr. Begovich is off duty.


Ireland: Immersion in Literature, History & the Arts

Rational for Class and Catalog Description: The thrust of the class is a reflection on major historical events and literary connections related to Ireland’s revolutions and devotion to its poets, authors, playwrights and cultural heroes. Much of the class focuses on the 1916 Rebellion and its crushing by the British military, but events leading up to 1916 such as the Potato Famine and events following such as the rise of the IRA are an integral part of this class. This extremely packed and demanding course will include classroom readings, mass media depictions (particularly 1916) and out-of-classroom visits to Ireland museums, historic sites, shrines and museums.  Required readings (including a staged radio play) will be
supplemented by movies, documentary footage, songs, news stories, poems, plays and fiction.

Goal: The overall thrust will be to contemplate and to assess the character of the Irish people, including the effects of Irish immigration to the United States.  Students will debate the spirit of revolution in the United States and Ireland and its political implications and human toll.

Effect on Other Department:  We have limited enrollment to 16 in order to better ensure the success of the London travel trip.

Reflection of their experience on student life: Students must keep a daily reflective journal.

Mandatory meeting with Simone: Yes, Nuwer and Begovich

Appropriate Free Time: Yes, in Galway and Dublin.

International credit

Yes, course counts as international credit.

Any Conditions?

Yes, students will be asked to adhere to an alcohol policy. Students 21 and under will be asked to refrain from drinking unless a parent or guardian signs the form granting permission. Due to the danger of students ending up in dangerous neighborhoods (particularly in large cities), Franklin College does not allow students to venture out on their own during their free time. We go in groups. (And believe it or not, students in the past have said they have a lot more fun that way).

Supplementary texts (on library reserve): Required Reading

Two selected chapters from How the Irish Saved Civilization: The Untold Story of Ireland’s Heroic Role from the Fall of Rome to the Rise of Medieval Europe
Thomas Cahill
Doubleday, New York

Three selected sections from Ulysses and "The Dead" from Dubliners by James Joyce
Selected additional short poems of W.B. Yeats

Textbooks to Purchase: Required Reading
 
An Irish Literature Reader: Poetry, Prose, Drama, edited by M. Murphy, et al. [Note: this includes folk songs, legends, poems from the eighth century to the present]. Women writers are well represented, which was not true of other Irish Lit anthologies on the market.

Readings from the Internet

Specific Classroom needs: Computer access in Shirk Hall 114 with computers


Course Assessment: Assignments

• Five quizzes over assigned readings; 20 points each.  100 points

• In Ireland, a “scavenger hunt” for historical, cultural and literary information available from site visits with the class to various museums, landmarks and theatres. 100 points

• A final critical essay exam to be written on the plane returning home; 100 points.

• Project: an oral history or creative/research  project 100 points.

Project due Jan 13, 11 p.m. Presented Jan. 14.

• Film (including documentaries) and critique/reaction mini reports; 5 essays @ 10 points each. 50 points

• Class participation, Daily Journal and professionalism as travelers; 0 to 50 points.

NO MIDTERM

500 points possible.
 

Intended Course Outcomes and Objectives

• By the conclusion of class students will know key events, people (heroes, leaders and literary figures), and issues related to Irish history and culture.

• Students will appreciate intercultural  perspectives and experiences from Ireland’s earliest artifacts of its cultural past to the present.

• Students will understand how  prejudice, stereotyping, ignorance and
discrimination led to unconscionable  and inhumane actions on the part of the British in Ireland. They also will examine the roots of violence in Ireland, including Ireland’s famed “troubles” and IRA terrorism.

• Students will gain insights into the
experiences of Irish-Americans in America.

• Students will understand ways in which
the mass media portrayed Irish cultural and literary events.

• Students will become more media and literature
literate.

• Students will appreciate the complexity
and challenges faced by Irish leaders and Britain’s government with emphasis on the 1916 rebellion and burning of large sections of Dublin in 1916.

• Students will better appreciate history through their hands-on experiences in museums and the Irish National Library.
• Students will discuss and interpret influences of the mass media with regard to Irish culture and history.
 
 
Course grades
A  93%    A- 90-92%
B+ 86-89%  B 83-85%  B- 80-82%
C+ 77-79%  C 74-76%  C-71-73%
D+ 68-70%  D 64-67%  D-61-63%
F 0-60%
 
Course Resources: Instructor maintains print and photo web site with journal entries and final exam of students.
 
Grading Course policies
• 10 points deducted for each unexcused
absence in Franklin and 100 points for each unexcused absence in Ireland itself; work is not allowed to be made up.  One of the instructors must approve  your request for an excused absence prior to the class session you will miss.  If you  are sick, you must phone an instructor
prior to the beginning of the class session or visitation day in Ireland you will miss.  

• No electronic devices of any kind may be
used during any portion of the class because they distract the instructor’s delivery,
including during the viewing of films.  This
means no computers, cell phones, tape
recorders, digital recorders, PDAs, etc.  10
points will be deducted without notice for
each use. You will be given breaks to check phone.

• No late work will be accepted.  Your grade
will be a 0 for any assignment not turned in
on deadline.  “I couldn’t get it to print” and
“My e-mail was down” are examples of
unacceptable excuses for late work. In a short class like this, the instructors must grade work quickly to tie in to class lectures.

• Controversial issues (e.g. religion and violence in Ireland) may be discussed
during class sessions and by speakers in Ireland. It is a given that you will respect views opposed to your own and agree to disagree in civil fashion with those in class or abroad whose views differ from our own.

Course Calendar: Franklin College Mornings (9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.) are for readings, lecture discussions. Movies in class will be shown and discussed 12:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. (A couple movies going until 4 p.m.)
 
Both textbooks needed in class each day. The instructors are dividing lecture workload.

Jan. 3
Course introduction and opening lecture
Ballads and folk songs and legends through Irish immigration to America (textbook).
Plays and poems and the Irish literary tradition.
Morning Film excerpts: Celtic Legends - Irish Legends (1999)
Textbooks needed in class today. Required library work in late afternoon.

Afternoon Film: This Is My Father

 
Jan. 4
Roman occupation and the fall of Rome. Irish role in preserving world culture and manuscripts.
The Irish as world mercenaries.  An occupied nation. British and Irish relations through 1915.
Required library work.

Film: Documentary on life of W.B. Yeats

Required library work.

Wednesday, Jan. 5
Discussion and lecture: Irish literary masters W.B. Yeats and Synge and others.
Lecture: 1916
Readings from 1916 Poets, Patriots, and Doomed Rebels

Morning Film: Sections from James Joyce biographical documentaries.
Required library work.
Afternoon Film: Michael Collins (Liam Neeson)


Jan. 6

Lecture: Ireland 1916 through the Troubles.
Discussion of Ulysses and "The Dead" by James Joyce
Film excerpts in morning: Bloom with Stephen Rea; Nora Barnacle
Morning Short Film: Documentary on life of James Joyce.

Afternoon Film: The Dead (Anjelica Huston)

 
Jan. 9

Famine in Ireland and Troubles in Northern Ireland

Lectures

Movie Potato Famine

Jan. 10

Lecture: Dublin (especially)  and Ireland, geography and climate.
Lecture: Oscar Wilde

Film: Veronica Guerin


Jan. 11

Lecture: Religion and politics and violence in Ireland
Lecture: Oscar Wilde Part II

Afternoon Film: The Importance of Being Ernest
 

Jan. 12

Lectures and Demonstrations: Student Presentations

Morning  and Afternoon Presentations

Jan. 13

Remaining presentations

Day 1 16 January 2011 – Welcome to Ireland

Arrive at Dublin airport. Meet with English speaking guide/coach driver Robbie Kelly and transfer to Dublin City Centre for an orientation tour of the city after dropping off luggage and 30 minutes to shower.

Group arrives and meet me at airport, take coast road through Malahide and Howth and into city for cleanup and short tour/ orientation then visit to Trinity.

From Roxan Chen and Abbey Tours (other descriptions are also from them): Dublin is a city with a soul, a place that has not lost sight of the fact that people are more fun than museums and that genuine human interaction is not the preserve of small villages.  Founded in 841 by the Vikings, it is a city with an interesting past.  Its many monuments tell of its history. A visit to St. Patrick’s Cathedral or Christchurch Cathedral will take you back to Medieval times, while a walk around Merrion square will remind you of the glorious days of Dublin when it was ranked as the second city of the British Empire after London. Today, Dublin is the Cosmopolitan capital of the Irish Republic and a city of 1 million people. Despite the many changes the city has witnessed during the last decade, it still remains a city ready to welcome all who wish to visit.

 Visit Trinity College and the Book of Kells – cost is Euro 6.50 per person Trinity was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth 1st on grounds confiscated from an Augustinian priory and is the oldest University in Ireland. The Campanile, erected in 1852, was built on what is believed to be the centre of the monastery.  Built to further the education of the ruling Anglo-Irish families, restrictions were imposed to prevent Catholic from attending courses. These restrictions were not fully lifted until the 1970’s. Trinity however admitted women in 1902, earlier than most British universities.  Most of the main buildings off the main square were built during the Georgian period, some of which replaced older buildings.  Within its walls, you will be able to admire Parliament Square and its 18th Century edifices. Trinity College has had many famous students such as Jonathan Swift and Samuel Beckett who later became a lecturer in French at the university.  The Inter-denominational Church is very much worth a visit, should it be open during your visit.

Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at the Maldron Hotel Cardiff Lane

 
Day 2 17 January 2011 – James Joyce

Travel southwards by bus to Sandy Cove, euro 6.10

 Visit James Joyce Museum ~ Martello tower –

The Martello Tower at Sandycove was built in 1804 by the British Army as part of their defences against a feared Napoleonic invasion. It became the private residence of Oliver St.John Gogarty in 1904 when James Joyce (then 22) was invited to stay. The museum was opened in 1962 by Sylvia Beach, the 1st publisher of Ulysses. The museum has photographs, letters, documents, various editions of his work and two death masks of Joyce on display.  This museum, dedicated to one of Irelands greatest and world-renowned authors, is a must for any visitor interested in Irish Literature.


Time to stop at James Joyce House – organized directly by Nuwer with Mr. Nicholson.

Lunch at Cavistons, an elite restaurant or lunch on your own at any one of several places.  Dress: sweater and slacks (walking shoes needed). Lecture on food and wine. Owner Peter Caviston. 28 euros per student (includes tip)

90 minutes for students to walk on beach, watch bathers, explore tiny town business area and get back on bus.

Wicklow tour including Glendalough


 Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at the Maldron Hotel Cardiff Lane

 

 

Day 3 Required: 18 January 2011 –

 Day in city visiting Kilmainham Gaol, Arbour Hill Cemetery (1916 martyr graves),

National Museum of Decorative Arts and Michael Collins Barracks

3 p.m. Writer's Museum

Free time in evening. Dinner on your own.
Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at the Maldron Hotel Cardiff Lane



Visit to the Dublin Writers Museum –

The Dublin Writers Museum is housed in a restored Georgian house on Parnell Square. The Irish literary tradition is one of the most illustrious in the world, producing four Nobel prizewinners and many other writers of international renown. In 1991 the Dublin Writers Museum was opened to house a history and celebration of literary Dublin. Situated in a magnificent eighteenth century mansion, the collection features the lives and works of Dublin's literary celebrities over the past three hundred years. Swift, Sheridan, Shaw, Wilde, Yeats, Joyce and Beckett are among those presented through their books, letters portraits and personal items. This visit is a must for visitors interested in Ireland’s literary heritage.

 
Day 4    19 January 2011 –
 
Travel to Galway by bus (possibly stop at Lockes distillery, Kilbeggan en route???) afternoon walking tour of Galway.  Visit to home of Nora Barnacle.
 


 Evening and dinner on student’s own.

 Group visits King's Head Pub for music.

Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at a fine Galway inn.

 

 

Day 5   20 January 2011 –  Galway

Burren region, Cliffs of Moher, Doolin cave, Thoor Ballylee (possibly farm visit at Rathbaun farm for working sheepdog visit) and back to Galway. O/N Galway


Highlight is trip along the coast for a visit to the Cliffs of Moher

Situated on the Atlantic Ocean and bordering the Burren Area, the Cliffs of Moher are one of Ireland's most spectacular sights. Standing 230 metres above the ground at their highest point and 8km long, the Cliffs boast one of the most amazing views in Ireland. On a clear day, the Aran Islands are visible in Galway Bay as well as the valleys and hills of Connemara. To the south of the cliffs is Hag's Head and was once the site of a castle.  The cliffs reach their highest point just north of O' Brien's Tower. Cornelius O’ Brien, a descendant of Brian Boru (he who defeated the Vikings in battle), built a Tower at the cliffs in order to enjoy some tea with his lady friends. The Tower is adjacent to the seastack, Breanan Mór, which stands over 70 metres above the foaming waves and is home to some of the Burren’s wildlife.

 

Travel through the Burren Region

The Burren, part of which forms the 100 square km Burren National Park, is a unique place. It is a Karst limestone region of approximately 300 sq. km, which lies in the north west corner of Co Clare. It is composed of limestone pavements, which have been eroded to a distinctive pattern.  This pavement is criss-crossed by cracks known as grykes in which grow a myriad of wild flora and under which are huge caves and rivers which suddenly flood when it rains. The Burren contains dozens of megalithic tombs and Celtic crosses as well as a ruined Cistercian Abbey dating back to the 12th century.  You will discover small villages abandoned during the famine period and green roads on which you can walk for miles without ever seeing a car.  The flora on the Burren is a mixture Arctic and Mediterranean and rare flowers such as gentian, orchids and bloody cranesbill are the rule rather than the exception. The Burren is truly an exceptional part of Ireland.

 

Continue on bus to Galway

 

Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast basis at your Galway region hotel

 

 Day 6  21 January 2011 – Aran Islands

 

Enjoy a full day tour to the Aran Islands

The three Aran Islands, Inisheer, Inishmaan and Inishmore, standing out in the Galway bay, form a mass of limestone, similar to the Burren’s geology.  Today the inhabitants live essentially off fishing and tourism while remaining strongly attached to Gaelic traditions.  These islands are the last real “Gaelthacht” of the modern Ireland.  Inishmore is the largest of them, it is covered in old stone walls and little fields.  On the West Coast of the island, majestic cliffs drop into the wild Atlantic ocean.  This area is dominated by Dun Aengus, one of the most impressive Neolithic forts in Europe.  A trip to the islands offers a journey through time, as well as an encounter with the old Ireland, the mythical Ireland.  For this reason, the islands are quite fascinating.

 

Inishmore, the largest of the Aran Islands, it is made up of 14 tiny villages.  A ferryboat is taken from Connemara.

 

Visit Dún Aengus

This is one of the finest prehistoric monuments in Western Europe. Dún Aengus is a huge prehistoric Fort built on the edge of a 300ft cliff on Inismór, the largest of the Aran Islands. It covers 11 acres and comprises of three concentric enclosures defended by stout walls of dry masonry, all of which is well preserved.  

 

Return to the village by mini-bus and take the ferry back to the mainland

 

Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast basis at your Galway region hotel

 

 Day 7   22 January 2011 – Sligo – Yeats Country

 Today travel northwards and enjoy a tour of County Sligo


County Sligo's beautiful scenery was an inspiration for Yeats, who is buried at Drumcliff Churchyard, under loaf-shaped Benbulben Mountain. The lakes of Sligo, with their still waters and wooded islands, are truly spectacular, and form a striking contrast to the county's rugged uplands. The imposing Neolithic cairn on the summit of Knocknarea, known locally as Queen Maeve's grave, is a striking landmark. At Carrowmore, you'll find the largest megalithic cemetery in Ireland. Sligo’s scenic coast has some excellent surfing beaches, including Strandhill, Rosses Point and Enniscrone, also popular for their golf courses. Lissadell House, once home to Countess Markievicz, is a good family attraction, with a lovely beach nearby.
 
Visit Drumcliffe & W.B Yeats Grave.

The famous Irish poet, W.B. Yeats is buried in Drumcliff. His tomb can be found in the cemetery of a small, simple church in Drumcliff. The church, in which his grandfather had been rector, was built on the foundations of St. Columba’s 6th century monastery. Nothing remains of the monastic site but a magnificent high cross and the ruins of a round tower. The tombstone of Ireland’s greatest poet is simple and carries the famous epitaph written by the author himself. "Cast a cold eye on life, on death, horseman pass by"

 

Return to Galway: Evening on your own or theatre if available

 

Day 8  23 January 2011 – National Aquarium and rest of day at leisure. Galway
 

Day 9 24 January 2011 –Connemara tour including Kylemore Abbey
 
Return to Galway.  Get to sleep early. Early wakeup in morning.
 

 

Day 10: 25 January 2011

Dublin to Galway (en route stop at Trim castle, very different type castle)  Boyne Valley.

Today the group will enjoy a tour of the Boyne Valley

The Boyne valley is without a doubt the most historical region of the whole island, therefore it is not surprising to find here the most important Irish monuments such as Newgrange, Knowth or Loughcrew Cairns. These are megalithic tombs, dating from 2500 B.C, located along the valley of the river Boyne. The river is also known for the famous Battle of the Boyne in 1690 between the Catholic King James of England and the Protestant King William. The victory of William over James had immediate repercussions on Ireland, some of which still influence Irish History today.

 

Visit Monasterboice – free

Monasterboice, one of the most famous religious sites in the country, was built in the 5th century a few miles north of Drogheda in a lovely-secluded setting. It is said that the monastic site was founded by St Buithe a follower of St, Patrick. With 2 churches, a round tower and 2 High Crosses it is one of the most visited religious sites in Ireland.  The treasure of this site is the high Cross-of Muiredach. Muiredach was the Abbott in Monasterboice until 922 and the prayer at the base of the cross is translated as “ a prayer for Muiredach for whom the cross was made”.  Considered the finest High Cross in the country, it is the pinnacle of achievement with many sculpted biblical scenes, which are still legible today.



Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at Maldron Hotel Cardiff Lane

 

 

Day 11: Tuesday 26 January 2011 – National Gallery of Ireland.

Library of Ireland: W B Yeats exhibit

Afterwards option of free time and/or Guinness Museum visit.
 

No coaching service included

Theatre: Abbey Theatre ($52 per student for ticket)
 
Overnight on a bed and full Irish breakfast at Maldron Hotel Cardiff Lane

 
Day 12:  27 January 2011   Northern Ireland tour by bus.

Return through New Grange

The Megalithic Passage Tomb at Newgrange was built about 3200 BC. The kidney shaped mound covers an area of over one-acre and is surrounded by 97 kerbstones, some of which are richly decorated with megalithic art. The 19 Metre long inner passage leads to a cruciform chamber with a corbelled roof. It is estimated that the construction of the Passage Tomb at Newgrange would have taken a work force of 300 at least 20 years. The passage and chamber of Newgrange are illuminated by the winter solstice sunrise. A shaft of sunlight shines through the roof box over the entrance and penetrates the passage to light up the chamber. The dramatic event lasts for 17 minutes at dawn from the 19th to the 23rd of December.


Day 13: 28 January 2011

Airport departure.
Tip driver.  10-15 euros each.

After a final Irish breakfast, meet with coach driver for transfer to Dublin Airport for departure flight home.

 

 NOTES

·       
·         Tips for driver and Dublin guide are not included in the quote and need to be considered by the client

·         Check-in to the Hotels may not be possible much before 4 p.m. on the day of arrival, as check-out time for guests is 12 and rooms have to be turned-around for incoming guests.

·        
·         Rates are based on a 20 seat coach.  Anticipating 16 students.



 
 
Ireland Preferred Timeline
Feb 04, present the itinerary to the FCC/receive approval.
Plane: $721 to $798 range, Indianapolis to Dublin with one stop. Aer Lingus

Total cost: $2900 to $3100
Trip Insurance: Optional but strongly advised
Individual will dial TRAVELEX  1800 228 9792. TRAVELEX will cover whatever the individual wants covered.
From Travel Agent: We recommend TRAVELEX most especially for trip cancellation in the event a student would have to cancel at a point when there is no refund.

Health insurance: required of each passenger on their own

Nuwer and Begovich Drug and  Alcohol Policy

Due to students being sent home from a winter course trip in 2009, it has become necessary for all instructors to come up with a strict policy. All students taking part in this course must abide by the rules listed below. All punishments are at the discretion of the supervising instructors Hank Nuwer and Ray Begovich, and in extreme cases, of Dean Brailow and Hall. Any drug use or purchase is an example of an extreme case. Being unable to attend breakfast at 6 a.m. or 7 a.m. so that our day’s scheduled activities are delayed is also an extreme case. Damaging hotel or other property is an extreme case. Being charged with a crime in another country would be a nightmare for you.

The economic situation in Ireland is extremely bleak at this time, and all going on this trip must be mindful of the impression we all are making as Americans.  Do not return disrespect if you receive it. Stay calm. Asking a stranger for directions (and getting a cutting remark) is one such interaction that could occur. It happened to your professor last January.

Behavior that endangers you or anyone in the group is not only intolerable but a safety concern. BE AWARE THAT TRAFFIC PATTERNS ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE U.S. NEVER STEP OFF A CURB WITHOUT CAREFULLY LOOKING BOTH WAYS. Your instructor Hank Nuwer saw Ireland firsthand in January, and the economy there has worsened since then. This includes being very considerate and not making noise in our hotel rooms and lobbies. You are not only leaving those in Ireland an impression of Franklin College, but also of America itself. Be especially careful to be quiet and respectful when your passports are being examined and stamped by Irish and American officials. Your instructor’s bags were chosen at random by police with dogs in Philadelphia upon his return to the United States and were searched thoroughly before being returned.

The legal age for consuming alcohol in Ireland is 18.  The consumption of a single alcoholic drink in appropriate cultural and behavioral contexts (such as ONE glass of wine with dinner) is permitted with a signed letter of permission from your parent(s) as the school suggests I obtain.  However, any use of controlled substances or more extensive use of alcohol or the abuse of alcohol will not be tolerated.  Drinking that results in drunkenness or inappropriate behavior, based on the main instructor’s qualitative impressions of the situation, may result in the reduction of a letter grade for the course, or in extreme cases a grade of F for the course, and/or the student being sent home at his/her own expense without refund. The professors involved in this course strongly discourage irresponsible alcohol consumption by students.
There will be time for you to shop- and have free time. You will need to leave a note for Hank Nuwer at the hotel desk with your intended destination and estimate of time back. He will make spot checks before going to sleep.
I understand the above policy and agree to abide by it. Should I break a rule even once, I understand the consequences of my actions. If sent home or charged with a crime, I agree to be billed for all costs associated with my poor judgment. Alcohol impairs judgment. Hence the strictness of this policy, especially in a nation known for its pub life.


                             Student Signature












_______________________________________________________________

The last journey to Ireland was memorable. See student comments below--HN

Franklin College Irish Studies Winter Term Course: January 15-27, 2010 "Oh the places you'll go!" Dr. Seuss "Opowiesci znad przepasci"--This means "Stories from the Edge" in Polish. It is taken from the title of my memoir in progress and is a perfect title for this course's diary which took us from the cliffs of the Irish Sea to the Cliffs of Mohr. "Opowiesci znad przepasci" was a phrase in a Polish leaflet at the Cliffs of Mohr site. I think it is an appropriate title for a great class with great students and a legendary bus driver. Thanks to fellow professor Dedaimia Whitney for her patience, knowledge, professionalism and forbearance.

Stories from the Edge

Journal: January 4, 2010. Place, Franklin College Shirk Hall

The "Fighting Irish" Students and Parent: 

Molly Martin and Amanda McIntosh
Robin and Angela Connelly
Evan Hutchens, James Fowler and Aaron Hommell
Katie Stephens and Katherine Hufford
Friedman, Rachel and Wray, Amanda
Ryan Austerman and Alex Roach
Sarah Brooke Hawes

Journal entry: Franklin College Ireland group:


At the Kilmainham Gaol,honoring the memory of the 1916 Freedom Fighters, this photo I
took of students JR Fowler and Aaron Hommel had an "apparition" next to them of some kind.
It's a good thing I don't believe in the Occult, but WB Yeats would have liked the photo--Hank.



Kate Hufford

January, 4 2010

      I expect to learn a lot about the history of Dublin and Ireland in general from my time in class.  I’m hoping that a lot of the information from “A Guide to Dublin: 1916” will be expounded upon during the first two weeks.  I’d like to learn a lot more about the literature and poetry written during the time of the rebellion.

      In Ireland, I want to immerse myself in the culture and avoid the typical “ugly American” label that many US tourists procure.  I expect to enhance my abilities to navigate a new city without the group as well.  I’ve never been out of the country and am looking forward to finding myself in a new environment.



Katie Stephens: Franklin College, Class of 2010

January 4, 2010

Since I have never been outside of the United States, I’m looking forward to seeing the differences in our culture versus that of the Irish. During our time in Ireland, I hope to meet and socialize with the locals, so that I understand what they think of Americans and how they live their lives facing the controversial issues they do.  I’m excited to see some of the popular “tourist” places in Ireland, such as the Blarney Stone, the Waterford crystal factory, and some of the Irish pubs and theaters that have had a significant impact in the Irish culture. I’m hoping the weather will cooperate enough to really enjoy the beautiful scenery of Ireland. I’ve been looking at books for a while now, and find the country absolutely breathtaking. Really though, I’m extremely excited to get out of the United States, and really experience another country for myself. For a year now I’ve been calling this “my big adventure”, and I’m excited to finally be in the last days leading up to the trip.


Molly hunts for perfect stone for Prof. Comiskey



Ryan Austerman
Expectations/Preconceptions

I've been to Europe several times and feel as though I have a pretty good understanding of the basic things to expect. European history and culture have always been one of my primary interests and as of right now I am looking at the trip as a excellent way to experience a European state that I have never previously visited.
I'm most excited for the attempt to get as much of an understanding of how Ireland actually works, and what daily life is actually like. Americans seem to strongly stereoype the Irish, and I'm most excited to see what the culture is actually like.


Hank Nuwer, Instructor

I guess I go back to what my coach informed our team back when I started playing frosh baseball for Buffalo State College and was so proud to wear the Buff State blazer and letter sweater. When you are on a trip you represent your college, yourself and your state. "Act like you belong." We want to demonstrate to our host nation of Ireland what
the character of Franklin College students and professionals is all about. Aside from that, I want this to be THE trip
of my students' lives. I am trying in the class to have a fun atmosphere but to absorb knowledge about the people, literature and culture of Ireland. With films such as "The Dead," I want to challenge their sophistication.

Amanda McIntosh
Journal 1

After seven months of preparation, my first visit to Ireland is just around the corner. Though I have traveled to Europe in the past four years, I believe my tour or Europe would not be complete without Ireland. I have family roots that trace back to Scotland and Ireland, when the name was Mackintosh, and I would be thrilled to visit a place that my ancestors would call home. On a lighter note, I am thrilled to see the social life of Ireland, other than the drinking.  I have studied Irish step dancing and traditional clogging during my years of dance, and I would love to participate in that aspect of Irish culture in some sort of way.

LINK to the Journal of Amanda McIntosh


Molly Martin
 
 
      I love to travel but have never been out of the country before so I am extremely excited for the opportunity to go to Ireland.  I have always wanted to go to Europe because I am fascinated by its rich history.  I cannot wait to see all of the modern and historical sites in the country from the city of Dublin to the ancient castles.  I am very anxious to take in all that Ireland and its people have to offer and experience the culture firsthand.

J.R. Fowler

I am going on the winter term travel trip to Ireland because this is one opportunity that should not be passed up.  This is a once in a lifetime experience and will be my first European trip.  I look forward to meeting new people and learning about a new culture with a rich history.  The history in the United States cannot compare to that of Europe and I cannot wait to visit.

Lex Roach

Here we go.

Rachel Friedman

      For the class, before leaving for Ireland, I’m not really sure what I expect.  I know that we will be reading a lot of literature and I’m excited about that but as far as the workload and what I will be learning I’m not really sure.  I guess I do want the class to prepare me for trip and I assume that we will be learning about Irish history as well.
      As for actually being in Ireland, I expect a great cultural experience.  I also expect to have a great trip with my peers while just having fun and learning.  I’m also excited to be part of the social life and to experience a different part of Europe.  I’m really excited about this trip and I’m so glad that I have this opportunity.

Amanda Wray
Expectations
 
I’ve always wanted to go to Ireland ever since I saw the green hills on TV when I was a kid. I’ve always wanted to learn more about Irish culture, too, because it’s not something that I’ve studied much in my history or literature classes. 
By taking this class, I expect to be finally able to fulfill my desires of learning about Ireland.
After listening to Professor Hank Nuwer outline the course material, I definitely expect to leave this class with a better knowledge of the culture, specifically about the history of the subjugation of the Irish people. I expect to learn more than just a typical tourist would learn because in this class, we will delve into the country and its rich background.

Aaron Hommell
I cannot wait to go to Dublin. Ireland is and has always been a revered land in my family. Just my grandmother giving me the nod as I asked her about this trip’s funding, gave me chills that to this moment light my inner fires and stoke them with vigor.  I have always wanted to see all 50 states before traveling abroad. I have seen 46 states, and with our stop over in Newark, I can make it 47. I guess South Dakota, North Dakota and Hawaii are going to have to wait.
I want to see the Cliffs of Moher because it is pretty magical to see these cliffs rising out of the swirling Irish Sea. Majestic yet brooding, the Cliffs of Moher are breathtaking.
Overall, the trip is much more than just this landmark, however, the entire experience should be enjoyable. If I come back with a twinge of an Irish brogue, that’s just how it is.

Evan Hutchens

 My excitement level for this trip is high.   I have many expectations for this class and trip.  I’m taking this trip because I want to see the world.  I want to experience another culture and see a part of the world I’ve never seen.  I hope to learn from this class and trip about Ireland’s history and people.  I hope this trip will further educate me and make me change as person for the better.  I think it is going to be an experience of a lifetime.

Sarah Hawes

This class seemed interesting to me because my family is of Irish and Scottish descent.  I want to learn more about the history of Ireland and I am excited to see all of the historical sites when we are there. I hope that we might be able to look in the archives to see if I could find my family name. I have two family names and my mom would love if I could find those for her.
I have never traveled overseas to Europe so I do not know what to expect when we travel. I hope this trip is fun and exciting.

Robin Connelly

Ireland has long been my dream country to visit. I love the mythologies, the idea of seeing the wee folk, their literature and culture. I’ve been learning about Ireland since I was 13—even attempting to learn the language and have made a long list of things I would like to see and do. I took this class in the hopes of crossing some of those things off my list. I also want to actually see what I’ve read about and seen in movies. I want to experience the culture. I realize I won’t be able to cross everything off my list, but I know that I can’t let this opportunity pass without me taking advantage of it, because it may be my last chance to go to Ireland and learn even more about the culture. One never knows what the future holds.

Amanda Wray

Expectations
I’ve always wanted to go to Ireland ever since I saw the green hills on TV when I was a kid. I’ve always wanted to learn more about Irish culture, too, because it’s not something that I’ve studied much in my history or literature classes.
By taking this class, I expect to be finally able to fulfill my desires of learning about Ireland.



Journal: January 11, 2010 Four days from liftoff!


Amanda Wray
Journal
11 January 2010
So far, the class has met my expectations, even exceeded my expectations. I’ve already learned more Irish history in four days of class than I’ve learned in an entire career of schooling. 
Not only have I learned more about the history, but I’ve also learned more about the culture through the various movies that we’ve watched. 
I’ve found that travelling becomes much more interesting when I have a basic understanding of a country’s background and people; I can appreciate landmarks and statues and museums so much more. 
Now that I’ve learned a lot more about Ireland, I’m even more excited to begin our travels. I can’t believe that we leave at the end of this week. I’ve waited so long to visit Ireland that it seems almost surreal that I’m finally able to go.

Kate & Rachel


Amanda McIntosh

I cannot believe how much I am learning in this class. I had no idea that the Irish went through a brutal civil war of their own. Certainly gives me a completely different look on the Irish and their history. All the information is a little overwhelming at times because I am starting from scratch, but it is a wonderful challenge. It is definitely making me think outside the box, that is for sure. I have been watching the Irish step dancing instructional video so that I can learn a few traditional steps, and it almost makes me want to take actual lessons. I do hope at some point on our trip I will be able to see some of that, whether it is at a festival or just a pub around the corner.

What I am not excited about? The plane ride over the Atlantic Ocean. Only six hours... I can handle it!

Evan Hutchens

Only a few more days until I’m there.  The excitement is starting to build.  I’m hoping I have everything ready.  I can’t imagine what it’s going to be like.  I’m ready to meet the people and the places.  I hoping that we kind of stand out since we are Americans there and get attention so it might be easier for us to meet people and learn even more.  I’m probably the most excited to see what Hank has set up for us.  Also Hank makes things so much more fun too.

Ryan Austerman
Four days before the trip, most of my thoughts are with making sure I am completely prepared for it. I’m a person that is obsessed with details and after the numerous trips I’ve taken around the States and Europe I’ve come to the conclusion that I enjoy preparing and planning for trips almost as much as the trip itself.  
The book The Easter Rising: A Guide to Dublin in 1916 has made me quite curious about the struggles Ireland faced when fighting for its sovereignty from Great Britain. At this time I think I’m going to focus my time in the museums and historic city spots of Dublin on learning as much as possible about Ireland’s fight for independence.
Ryan and Amanda

J.R. Fowler
Journal Entry
As our journey to Ireland gets closer and I begin to realize that I have so much to do before we go, the amount of knowledge I have learned about Ireland has grown greatly.  I have gone from being completely ignorant about the happenings in Ireland to being greatly informed.  Hopefully, this will keep me from sticking out on the streets of Dublin too much.  I am growing anxious and cannot wait for out departure on Friday and the great times that we all will have while in Ireland.


Robbie Kelly

Molly Martin
Journal Entry 2
 
As our date of departure gets closer and closer and we learn more about the country of Ireland and its fascinating history I get more and more excited to finally visit there.  I am anxious to see all of the locations that we have been discussing.  I will be able to appreciate all of the sights so much more now that I know the history behind them.  I am also very excited to meet some of the locals.  It will be interesting to learn about the people’s culture and opinions from the people themselves.  I can’t wait to get there!


Lex Roach

I’m already packed, which means this next week I’ll be looking like it’s summer with my shorts and flip-flops. I’m hoping this week flies by. I’m almost as excited about the plane ride as I am the trip, because a book is coming out Wednesday that I’ll be able to read on the flight.

Mrs. Connelly
I’m really excited about going to Ireland.  I appreciate Mr. Nuwer letting me join the group and my daughter for asking Mr. Nuwer if I could go to Ireland and my daughter wanting me to go.  The history of Ireland is fascinating.  I really like Maude Gonne.  She was beautiful I’m and full of fire and determined to help her cause.  I want to see the caves and the giant causeway.  I’m looking forward to visiting the pubs to meet the people and hear what they have to say and I’m sure I will be freezing, I’m very cold natured, unlike my daughter, Robin.


Katie Stephens
January 11, 2010
Many things have been going through my mind as we prepare to leave for Ireland. I’m not nervous in any way, except that I don’t want my luggage to be lost on the way there.  Other than that, my excitement level is high and I’m ready to see what Ireland offers.  The group of us going will have tons of fun and I’m excited to plan free-time activities too. It’s going to be a great trip.


Aaron Hommell
Countdown to Ireland—T-minus four days. I walked into class a week ago and had some understanding that this class was going to change me as a person. I have pulled out my passport, packed my carry-on and figured out the exchange rate. I’ve even looked at the weather of Dublin: rain, rain and more rain. It’s like I’m not even leaving Franklin weather wise.
However it doesn’t feel like I’m going to be leaving so soon. I have chores and bills that I have to take care of before I leave.
Here I come Ireland. Ready or not, I will be standing on foreign soil in some 100 hours. It’s hard to believe.



Rachel Friedman
January 11, 2010
      With only four days until we leave, I’m getting more and more excited to be leaving.  I have learned so much about Ireland.  I’m usually not a history buff but Ireland’s history is really fascinating and maybe that’s because this is the first time I’m learning about it.
      Part of me hopes that Ireland is much as I have pictured it and part of me hopes to see the different side of Ireland that I have been learning about.  Like in any country, it’s not perfect.   All in all, I think that this will be an amazing trip and I’m glad that I have learned so much.

Sarah Hawes
Journal 2
I am more excited for our trip to Ireland. Before this class I was unaware of the events that have taken place in the country or what to expect when we get there. Over the weekend I saw the movie “Leap Year, “which took place in Ireland. There were several landmarks that were intriguing to me, and I hope that we might be able to visit them.  I have learned more about the country during this class and I am excited to see all of the historical landmarks during our trip.

Ire-Landing at Dublin airport, Rachel Friedman and Amanda Wray

Robin Connelly
The more I learn about Ireland, the more excited I’m becoming about this trip.  It is my dream country after all, and I’m looking forward to seeing the sights I’ve already imagined myself being in, like Newgrange, Trinity College and the like. I love history and am looking forward to seeing some of the sights that were mentioned in  “The Easter Rising: 1916.” This trip will also give me more fodder for my stories, which tend to have an Irish theme to them and hopefully make them more realistic than just reading about a place or tradition could provide me.

Hank Nuwer
A group has chemistry or it doesn’t.  Some of us in this group crave solitude but adjust well in groups because of a sense of humor or sense of commitment to the group. A few are true extroverts and feed off that group energy and give it back threefold. Whatever the personality, each of us must care about each member of the group and watch the backs of everyone for safety sake. That done, each must throw himself or herself into this trip with full abandon. What’s the use of the trip of a lifetime if your heart and soul are back where you came from? Ireland, we are SO willing, ready, locked and positioned.


Journal: January 14, 2010  19 hours from liftoff




Hank Nuwer

This is my second trip to Ireland but first to Galway—so excited. The one detail not settled is whether I will use my one off day to visit the Isle of Man by ferry.  My one regret in going to Belgium was that I was one mile from the Netherlands border, but that I did not have permission to take the rental car there. In terms of my passport stamps, Ireland joins England, France, Switzerland, Italy, Germany, Dominican Republic, Luxembourg,  Barbados, Trinidad, Tobago, Mexico, Canada on my “Been there, Done That” list.

Katie Stephens

Ireland is just hours away and I have to admit that I'm a whole mix of emotions. I've started to pack and have begun getting every thing in order for leaving. I can't believe it's finally here. As we watch the movies and finish our readings in class, I begin to really marinate on the type of place and people we will see. I hope I soak in all that Ireland has to offer. The culture and the history of the island are so similar to ours in the US and I really want to get to know what Irish folk think of their history and if they see the similarities too. I can't wait to see the monuments and memorials to their heroes, like Michael Collins, Paddy Pearse, and WB Yeats. My excitement is hardly contained. I just cannot wait. My anticipation level is through the roof for our adventure! I cannot wait!

Aaron Hommell

I have family from Ireland, and others from more ambiguous areas. I am trying to look at this trip as a returning to the motherland, however it is not my own. I am happy to finally be at a cross roads quite literally as I get ready to head to the Indianapolis International Airport to head across the pond. Get ready Ireland, here I come.

Alex Roach

My father’s side of the family is supposedly from Ireland. Our original name is Roche and was changed to Roach when a relative of ours came to America. His name was Thomas Roche/Roach and since then the first son has either been given the first or middle name as Thomas. This is where my original interest in Ireland came from.

Evan Hutchens

Tomorrow is the day.  The dream of a lifetime is almost here.  My family has a Scottish heritage so being in Ireland and meeting the Irish will be as close to my heritage as I’m going to get.  I can’t wait to get there.  My entire goal for the trip is to meet as many people as I can and just learn about the culture.  I want to visit as many places as I can.  I’m hoping that the entire experience will change me as a person. 

J.R. Fowler

    We leave for Ireland tomorrow, and I cannot wait!  I do not know, for certain, my heritage, but believe that part of my family does, in fact, date back to Ireland.  After my return, I plan on doing a lot of research as to my roots that I have waited a long time to begin.  Everyone venturing on the trip is great and I am looking forward to the time I get to spend with them and the time I get to spend with the people I meet. 

West Coast bovine stock

Amanda Wray

I’m fairly sure that I have some Irish in my lineage, but, unfortunately, I do not know a lot about that part of my background. So, instead of writing about my family, I’ll write about my thoughts on the presentations today.

This morning, each of us presented information about a certain historical figure that was involved in the movement for Irish freedom. I really enjoyed every presentation, especially because the figures came to life. It’s easy to read about a person and not entirely understand or think about whom they were. It’s easy to gloss over his personality without delving into his motivating factors or thoughts. Even though the presentations were fictional, I still think that I am leaving class today with a more realistic view of Irish history.

Sarah Hawes

Today is the day before the trip and I am getting more nervous than before. My sister left for Italy on Tuesday and she had a hard time packing light. My mom had to help her re-pack; three times. Hopefully no one on this trip will lose his or her luggage. I still have to finish packing before tomorrow! I am leaving my two dogs at home in the care of my best friend. Hopefully nothing will happen while I am away.

Molly Martin

I’m all packed and cannot wait to get in the air and be in Ireland.  I do not know of any specific family members that are Irish, but I have been doing my research and found that the name “Martin” originated in Galway.  This was very exciting for me and makes the trip even more meaningful for me.  I feel like I’m returning to my roots.  I cannot wait to get there!

Amanda McIntosh

So I am a little worried.

I am worried I am going to be too picky of an eater while in Ireland. I have always been a picky eater, and though I am all about trying new things, I know I may not like some of the food there. We tried some of Hank's Irish stew, and though it was a wonderful dish, it still did not fit my taste. That will be a challenge within itself.

However, I cannot believe that we fly out tomorrow. I am excited to travel from place to place. I have never been to New Jersey before so I am excited to simply see that. I love the excitement of airports, people going to place to place, and just the adrenaline rush you get when you are racing to catch your flight.

Robin Connelly

We leave for Ireland tomorrow. I’m excited and a bit stressed over the prospect. I spent most of last night figuring out how to pack everything up, because I’ll be carrying most of the bags mom and I bring to Ireland for some of the trip and I want to make that task easier on me. I still have a few things to figure out, but what to pack is not on the list. I don’t imagine I’ll be having much more trouble in that area though.
      
Today I’ll be making copies of a lot of things, for that horrific just in case scenario. So, I’ll be playing with the copier machine.  I also imagine I’ll be talking to my mother a lot, since we’re sharing supplies and we’re both bringing something different to the table. It’s one advantage of having your mother come with you.
        No matter what kind of mad dash I may end up running today, I doubt I’ll regret my decision to see Ireland.



JR, Amanda and Molly at the nude beach--Nah, she didn't.


January 15, 2010  Pix at the airport


January 15

Hank Nuwer: Even the airport "waits" were great. After meeting all the parents and getting euros, we went through security in record time. At the Indy gate I met two female travelers from Ethiopia, which was amazing as a coincidence because I just finished a history of Ethopia and another on Italy's invasion of Ethiopia. They said that no Americans had ever known anything about Ethiopia except for maybe telling them about Haile Selassie. That made me feel good. Then our fantastic travel agent Roxan Chen got us a VIP room with free Cokes at the Newark airport, and she surprised us in person and gave Prof. Dedamia and me travel journals. Too good for words, huh? I could not believe my luck on the plane. I got a seat to myself. Boy, did the students razz me over that, but I slept like a bear in a log, you betcha. Our first day in Ireland was exhausting. We visited Trinity College and saw the Book of Kells. We went to a historic courtyard in time to see Ireland President Mary McAleese who waved to us from her car.  Definitely a thrill that rejuvenated even the most tired students. How can you top that? You can't.

Visited the Napoleonic fortress (Martello Tower) of poet Oliver Gogarty. Writer James Joyce visited him and shot the place up. There was a nude beach and a couple swimmers were in the icy waters. I modestly went in up to my knees with rolled pants. None of the students went in. It was here I found my stone t put into the wall of the daughter of Prof. Steve Comiskey. Kate was killed by a drunk driver. We all are collecting stones to honor Kate's memory. Prof. Comiskey is well loved as a professor.

January 16:

Hank Nuwer: Went to purportedly the oldest pub in Dublin called The Old Standand chatted with lady bartender from Poland (here two years) and actually carried on a bit of conversation in Polish. I am determined to learn Polish the next two years and now have a language course from a friend whose mother had learned Polish. The Old Stand has a floor that could make you dizzy with black squares on a white backdrop. Just drinking espresso coffee here and nursing each cup because it costs almost as much as a meal for just  two cups of espresso. In medieval days this section of the city was called Hog Hill, and it does seem to be elevated a bit as you walk. Here is a video of the Old Stand. The food menu looks great here but counting my  euros. Earlier in evening went to a very commercial literary pub crawl with pubs such as Davy Byrnes Pub, mentined in Joyce's Ulysses and Dubliners. The two guides were comic actors and did a very good Becket "Waiting for Godot."


January 17  

Robin Connelly: Last night I went to a Literary Pub Hop. I was a lot more fun than I expected. The guides actually performed, providing monologues or duets to present literary figures in a fun way. I enjoyed it so much I bought the book that goes with the tour.

Rachel Friedman: I went to Abrakebabra and they had really good food. It was cool to eat Irish fast food. I also had fun walking in a new part of Dublin.

Sarah Hawes: We went to the National Gallery and the National Library. We had fun walking around and exploring new things in Dublin.

Hank Nuwer:  "How many loved your moments of glad grace,
And loved your beauty with love false or true?" I would love to meet WB Yeats' unrequited lover Maud Gonne to see what she really thought of the poet. How inconvenient that she is dead.  LOL PS: I like to savor my visits to museums and so I was at the National Gallery and the National Library hours after the students departed each place. This was my second visit in a year to the Library and its great W.B. Yeats exhibit. It's my second favorite library after the Library of Congress in Washington, DC. I really loved the film clips of Maud Gonne. Somehow it had eluded me that she was an actress and had been in a Lady Gregory-Yeats play that we read in class. It amuses me that Yeats proposed to Maude's daughter Iseult also after Maude spurned him. I think my favorite artist at the National Gallery might be Jack B. Yeats, the brother of W.B. Yeats. I particularly loved his "A Bachelor's Walk: In Memory." His later paintings are so experimental and avant garde--give me the early, vibrant work any day. Dang the luck--the Portrait section of the museum was closed, which I really loved on my visit here one year ago--so the students missed a real highlight that I wanted so much for them to enjoy. The students don't like the scavenger hunt idea I had. Hard call on my part. If the trip isn't structured, would they see the museums and the National Library on their own or would they just wander the city undirected? Dunno. Depends on the student, I guess. But I felt bad that they were ignoring great paintings just to check off items on the scavenger list I gave them. (.  At the Library I liked the snapshot of Yeats with John Masefield. Oh to be a fly on the wall and to record their conversation that day.

PPS Hutch and I went out to hear great Irish music at Gogarty's which is named for Oliver Gogarty, the poet, sportsman and politician who was ridiculed by James Joyce in Ulysses. We met a prof and some students from Luther College and compared notes about our respective trips. Hutch and I needed directions to find the pub I was at the day before, and we actually met and talked to Bernard Dunne, a champion Irish boxer, and his girlfriend on a street corner. They were both very cordial, but  I had the name of the pub wrong.  He wasn't very big through the shoulders, maybe 3/4ths my shoulder size. Must get all his power punches from his wrists?  Hutch and I needed to get to Exchequer Street, at the junction of St. Andrew Street, but we just went around in circles. I hope Hutch didn't mind me getting us lost, and he's a good guy who doesn't sweat small stuff anyway. It gave us a chance to see nearly all of the Temple Barsection of Dublin. Unbelievably, students from Wisconsin were still up in the middle of the night, and they were cordial to use, and mainly seniors and a little older than our students.

Gogarty's Pub



Hutch and friends one night at hotel.

Amanda Wray: Today we visited the National Gallery and the W. B. Yeats exhibit. Although I knew a little about Yeats prior to going to the National Library, I didn't know he was so involved in the occult. It seemed to form a major part of his life and might have influenced his writings. I like his poetry and knowing some of his background makes me like it more.

Lex at the Gaol

A black cross marks spot

Hutch Hutchens: Lindafiske@netscape.net  We visited the National Gallery and saw some amazing art. We then went to the National Library and saw a great Yeats exhibit. I couldn't believe all the poems he had written that they had (in manuscript form). Hank and I went to a pub tonight and had a great time. We listened to some original Irish music but also ran into students from the States.  I wrote a poem for you, Hank: "Hutch and Hank went to a nice, cozy Irish pub/We met a few ladies in need of mateys/And a few wanted to make Hank a hub." After leaving we asked someone for directions and just happened to ask a world champion boxer (Bernard Dunne).

Katie Stephens: While visiting the National Gallery and National Library were intriguing, I enjoyed going around the city shopping and getting to meet Laura. Our night out with her and JR was really fun, and I think she's a new Dublin friend for life. I'm excited for Galway now.

Aaron Hommell: Little children, I will tell you of the first Irish date of JR Fowler. His evening started once he met Laura cain. Temple Bar are fun for them spells love in the future. Other than JR's hot date we went to the National Gallery of Ireland and the National Library. I had a great time again. Moreover, I want to move. NOW!

JR Fowler: Art Gallery, Yeats Exhibit, Free Time. Yes!!!

Professor Whitney and the Gaol Museum

Amanda McIntosh: First off, Happy Anniversary, Mom and Dad. I got to go to the National Gallery. I really enjoyed Jack Yeats. His use of simple paint strokes to cover an entire canvas was remarkable. We also got to go to the WB Yeats Museum, and I got to see some of his original work. What a clever man!

Kate Hufford: Some things I didnt expect in Dublin: 1) Abundant wrought iron. 2) Brightly painted doors. 3) People jogging all the time, everywhere (I approve). 4) Seagulls (should have expected this). 5) Five Chinese restaurants per block (slight exaggeration). 6) Brown boots with black clothing is acceptable; knee high boots are ubiquitous. We went to a museum and an art gallery. Unfortunately, I didn't really get to enjoy my visit because I and the rest of the class were too busy frantically working on a scavenger hunt to look at the paintings. It was really frustrating because I would've rather just looked at the artifacts for my own enjoyment. Afterwards, we split up into groups and traversed the city. My group toured Grafton Street and the Temple Bar area to shop and din't make it back until arond 5 p.m. I'm so tired. We're getting up at 6 a.m. tomorrow and moving to Galway for a few days before coming back to Dublin. I can't wait to see the countryside.

Robin Connelly: I think that I would have enjoyed the Art Gallery more if I hadn't been falling asleep on my feet. I went to bed as soon as we returned from the National Library. The nap helped.

President of Ireland party about to depart.

Molly Martin: The first day we got to see the President of Ireland. Yesterday was another great day. We visited another town that was on the [southeast] Coast. It was gorgeous. However, the nude bathers were a little offputting. We visited the James Joyce Museum that is in a Martello Tower. The museum was great, but the stairs were awful. I've never been so claustrophobic in my life. We then went shopping on Grafton Street and wandered around.

Molly checks view from hotel

Amanda Wray: We went to see the James Joyce Museum today. He is such an interesting man. After visiting the tower I want to learn more about him and read more of his literature.

Ryan Austerman: We visited Sandy Cove today, a wonderful seaside area, where we went to the James Joyce Tower, later going to a small street festival.

Lex Roach: Awesome! I found a comic book shop and it was sahweet!

Grizzlies Aaron, JR, Amanda Mac and guide take to streets of Dublin

January 18

Molly Martin: It was nice to have a more relaxed day yesterday to just walk around. I went to St. Stephen's Green, which is a beautiful park. So far the weather has been gorgeous which is surprising.

Ryan Austerman: Today was a great experience. We had plenty of free time, most of which I spent north of the river on a university campus where I chatted with students over coffee.

The legend himelf: Robbie Kelly (yay)

My Gosh, what's coming out of the science lab? Help.


January 19:

Kate Hufford--Words I've learned the Irish term for:
1) fun = crak (pronounced crack). 2) sidewalk = path; 3) glass = pint; 4) mail = post; 5) police = garda. Finally, we got out of the cramped bustling city and into the countryside today. It had everything I hoped it would be when I signed up for this trip. Seeing the Atlantic for the first time was amazing. More so than seeing the Irish Sea because it's closer to home. I just couldn't take my eyes off it. Everyone slept, but I sat wide-eyed as the ocean rolled past the bus windows....We saw the Mohr Cliffs today and they were by far the most magnificent works of nature I have ever seen. The wind blew so hard it felt like it would sweep you off the cliff face. I sprinted with it at my back and felt like I was flying....

Ryan Austerman: This morning we are leaving for Galway. I've been getting up early every morning for walks around Dublin. Today was another early one--followed by a great breakfast with friends. I'm very excited for the drive to the southwest and the Cliffs of Mohr.

Hank Nuwer: This is the day I really longed for. Leaving the big city of Dublin and getting to see the Cliffs of Mohr and the long exanse of blue-grey Atlantic spreading out from the high rocks. Wonder if the students will like Galway late tonight as much as I think they will? It should be much more contained in terms of getting to see the sights in one quarter of a much smaller city.  A couple of us have memorized the words to "Galway Girl" by Steve Earle. We had a fine Day-yi-yay-yi-yay. Went out late on my own in the rainy night. Met Deborah and enjoyed talking with her. Then joined up with Robbie and Dedaimia and met Anna, Louise and Eimear--funny and smart and friendly Galway people. Love learning about the Irish people firsthand. Just pleasant, low-key night. Our group keeps seeing celebrities. Latest in Galway AND also at the Cliffs of Moher is an actor from Chicago who had a part in Sean Penn's "Into the Wild." The students have sharp eyes for looking into the faces of people as they pass.

JR Fowler: We had a very long, but scenic bus ride today throughout Ireland on our way to Galway. This was the Ireland I wanted to see. Yes, Dublin is nice, but it's like many cities in the world. The Irish countryside is just as beautiful as I expected. On our agenda for the day was the Cliffs of Mohr. This was the single most site I wanted to see on the trip, and it was amazing. Though the bus ride was a little bumpy, we were able to see much of what you think Ireland is all about.

Hutch Hutchens: What a day! We viewed the Cliffs of Mohr. It was a breathtaking view. Then we made it to Galway today. There is a smalltown feel here like back home. We have had beautiful weather the whole trip but today we got rain. We also saw the countryside. What I saw was exactly what my view of Ireland was going to be.

Hutch compares notes with prof from Luther College.

Hank compares notes with students from Luther College

January 20

Ryan Austerman: A full day experiencing Galway was the perfect way to experience the West Coast. Many wonderful sights and times here.

Robin Connelly: Bought some souvenirs today for friends and family today. It cost a lot of money, but I think I uncovered some things that will be appreciated, whether a knife, hat or shirt. Otherwise, I went to the Quays (pronounced Keys) Pub.

Amanda Wray: We visited Ballylee, W. B. Yeats' tower today. Even though we didn't go inside it, I still enjoyed seeing the old living quarters of the great poet.  Last night I was asked if I wanted to have some "crak" at a club. I would have been shocked, but I know that in Ireland "crack" means "to have fun." I chatted a while with the Irish man about how the same two words mean two completely different things in different countries.

Rachel and Amanda and the Gladdach ring

The streets of Galway are colorful

Hank Nuwer: My mentor Fraser Drew would have burst with joy if only he weren't in his late 90s and could have accompanied us to Ballylee. He paid homage right here to William Butler Yeats at the tower of Thoor Ballylee on his many visits to Eire. We've left all our cares and woes in America. The people here are so friendly. Robbie had to squeeze the bus onto a road so narrow, but somehow he managed. The main road was closed because of heavy rains lately. The creek running alongside the tower was swollen, but the students braved the mud and trotted alongside it.  I loved the thatch roof on Yeats's home adjacent to the tower. There are other stately houses nearby with thatched roofs as well. Wish it were open to the public, but you miss some things in January. We are the only group here. No security. If this landmark were in America or Germany there would be a guard breathing down our necks. The Irish just assume that all will behave, and that's that. There was a mixup at the home of Nora Barnacle, but Robbie got on the phone and learned that the tour conductor expected us to visit James Joyce's bride's home tomorrow. No big deal. Robbie is the best tour guide we ever could have. Passionate about Ireland. Does his homework. Reads the kids and profs well. We all respect him. Good guy.  

Kate Hufford: I woke up in Galway to discover that my hotel room has an ocean view. I like this hotel and city so much better than Dublin. It's a little bit smaller. I can navigate it easier, and it's just an overall more friendly place. I'm disappointed that we're moving away from the Atlantic and back to Dublin tomorrow. At the same time, this means the sixth day until we leave which makes me happy. I've really enjoyed Ireland, but I'm ready to be back in the States. I miss running and can't start again until we get back (I accidentally left my running shoes in my closet). We visited Thoor Ballylee, the home of W. B. Yeats, but it was closed due to recent flooding. I also bought my very own Irish woolen sweater. Thankfully, it does not make me look like a Grandma. The only other purchase I want to make is a pair of black, knee-high boots. I've been looking everywhere for the perfect boots at a reasonable price, but I haven't found them yet. They're really popular here, and I hope to find them before we leave.

JR Fowler: After a short visit to the Nora Barnacle home to find it was closed, we traveled out to the tower at Ballylee. It was a wonderful place, and I can see why people chose to travel here for leisure. Upon our arrival back into Galway we were able to look at the shops and inside of a mall, see the original city wall. Galway, in my opinion, is much more of a personable city, and I wish we could stay here for more time.

Molly Martin: I love Galway. It's the Ireland we had all been imagining. It was a lot of fun to wander around and meet some of the locals. The best part was that all of us went out together and got to bond. I wish we had more time there, but I'm excited to go back and see the Guinness Storehouse!

Evan Hutchens: The second day in Galway was better. We walked the streets and went to a lot of shops. I was amazed to see that they had built the mall around a part of the original city walls. The entire group went out tonight and we had a blast. We all met some locals and had some great conversations. I'm sad to leave Galway but it's kind of neat to meet some friends we met back in Dublin.

Aaron Hommell: Galway was more the Ireland I had imagined. My day started with a beautiful sunrise over the Galway Bay. I had oysters, fish and chips for lunch, then we headed for Galway for some free time. Katie and I walked about four miles around the town. We stopped in the Mall and looked at the shops. I needed to use the Loo and was offered crack in the bathroom. Don't worry. I just said no. It was a story for sure. More about that later. We ate dinner in the Hotel and pubbed it up at a place called the Quay. It was a fun place with people from all over the world. More tomorrow when we get back to Dublin.

Rachel Friedman: Today we walked around Galway. We saw many landmarks. I was so excited that we had some shopping time. I was able to buy a book in Gaelic. At night we went out and heard a great band. I'm really loving our group.

January 21

Kate Hufford: Hank and all the class went out to The Quays and we didn't get to bed till 3 a.m. You know you need more sleep when you try to use deoderant as chapstick the next morning. It was so worth it though. We talked to people and made friends all night. Today was just a process of driving from Galway to Dublin. We were all so tired we slept most of the way. We also visited Nora Barnacle's house (wife of James Joyce) before departing. It was interesting, but actually all I wanted to do was sleep.

Hank Nuwer: Hung out at The Quays in Galway and met an interesting University College Dublin student named Pauline Keating--continuing to meet native Irish and I am grateful for that. The students are tired but game for new experiences, and all loved meeting the singing police at our hotel.  My gosh, these off-duty garda we met at the hotel bar last night about 3 a.m. after leaving The Quays were accomplished singers--have to be a choral group. I envied their singing prowess, plus they were great guys. Their repertoire of Irish medleys was astonishing.  Lord, do I love Galway and the Irish people. We Americans -- you won't believe it --came up with "Take Me Out to the Ballgame" to sing. Guys...you were the best hosts, and thanks for making us Hoosiers feel welcome in your beautiful country!!!! Love our FC students. They have a great time but know limits (plus we are all on budgets--so expensive here--and I'm more into lamb stew and English pot pie than Guiness). We all really loved Galway. Going to miss it.  


Our Polish waitress Iwana.  The FC students were great sports and let Hank teach them simple
Polish greetings. Hank's family is from Poland, and he met at least a dozen Poles and shared heritage stories. Maybe Winter Term 2012: Krakow, Warsaw and the seacoast and mountain forests of Poland. Hank is taking an online Polish course now.


PS from Hank: Up at 7 a.m. to say goodbye to Iwana, our waitress from Poland, and we talked in my broken Polish and her broken English. Ryan and Lex were the only ones up with me and they stumbled through the few Polish words I could teach them the other day. Iwana (pronounced Yvonne) is from rural Poland outside Krakow. Ryan and Lex are early birds like myself.



Rachel Friedman (above): Today we left Galway and I was sad to be leaving. But thanks to Robbie our busdriver we got to hear interesting information on our way home.

Katie Stephens: I didn't want to leave Galway this morning. I wish we could have stayed much longer. Althorne was a cute town though.

Katie Stephens finds a bargain store.

Hutch Hutchens: The first day back in Dublin was great. I miss Galway, but it is good to be back in the Big City.

Aaron Hommell: Galway is great, but great things come to an end.....An Irish Paradise! On to Dublin.

January 22

Sarah Hawes: We went to the Abbey Theatre tonight. "The Seafarer" was really good. We spent the day as a free day and went shopping on Grafton Street and by the Spire (Connelly area).

Hutch Hutchens Today I caught up on a little sleep. It was nice to sleep in. Then I walked around the city and visited shops. At night we went to the Abbey Theatre and saw a fantastic play.

Rachel Friedman: After a day of sitting on a bus, I was excited to get out on my own.

Hank meets Brandon and Don

JR Fowler: It was great being able to sleep in today. The extra sleep was much needed after the last few nights. Aaron, Katie, Molly and I made our way to the Guiness Factory on the opposite side of Dublin (from the hotel). The entire tour was great. It was much more than I had ever expected, and all for only 11 euro. We learned all about the brewing process, tasted a glass right off the line, and got free pints at the bar at the top of the factory. Later that evening, we all went to the Abbey Theatre and saw The Seafarer. It was extremely funny and I am glad (tour planner Roxan)  planned for us to see it.

Hank Nuwer: Eat your heart  out, Aaron. Dedaimia and I found a great thrift shop, and I came back with three expensive rugby shirts for two euro each. (I wanted a tacky lamp, but felt that was stretching Customs regs and did not purchase it). Last night we went to the Abbey Theatre, and we all dressed spiffy, even me. Our bus driver was a replacement, a giant man who must weigh 400 pounds but was very accommodating and solicitous of what the group needed. Wouldn't you know that the two biggest guys on the trip (Aaron and me) sat side by side in two shoebox seats at the Abbey. Other than a one-act leg cramp which I hated,  I loved the play The Seafarer by Conon McPherson--dark, nasty, slapstick funny and powerful--sad--drama. Earlier today, many of the students went to the Guiness or Jameson Factory, but I wanted to experience non-tourist (Is that possible?) Ireland and took off today on my own to the countryside in the south of Ireland via train. Met two wonderful spry Irish gents in their EIGHTIES who regaled me with stories and tales and hung with them. Met interesting women at a bookstore and got new tips on contemporary Irish writers--but not Maeve Binchy thankfully. Had AWFUL fish and chips as my meal. In a way I think I am experiencing Ireland as one  needs to do--concentrate on the small towns and countryside. Plus the students need time away from their instructor. How am I EVER going to stuff all the used books I bought today into my luggage? (Answer: ended up throwing away extra shoes and clothes!). Filling up my personal journal with notes on the bus! Are all profs like me?--notes, notes and more notes.  I was tired after the Abbey and slept hard after brushing my teeth. I miss my black Labrador retriever Dogzilla. Today someone was walking his black Lab, and I got dogsick--if there is such a word.


Katie Stephens: The Guiness Factory was absolutely amazing. The Gravity Bar had the best rooftop view of Dublin. Also, "The Seafarer" was a hysterical play, although I was not impressed with the Abbey building itself.

Kate Hufford: Today, I am sad to report that I have discovered that the elevator in my Irish hotel has an English accent. Irish people are incapable of pronouncing the "th" sound. Thus, any word with said letter combo in it comes out with only a "t" sound. The elevators in Ireland always announce the floors too. With these two facts in mind, you can easily understand why I feel inclined to check how the elevator in my hotel pronounced "third floor." To my disappointment, it uttered "third" instead of "turd," which is the Irish would have said the word. Very sad and unauthentic in my opinion. Besides this minor letdown, today was fun. It was a free day and so a group of us toured the Jameson Irish Whiskey distillery and went shopping afterwards. Hank took us to an ourageously funny play at the Abby Theatre. We all had a good laugh before turning in to bed.

Aaron Hommell: Guinness Factory this morning. Loved the Factory's history. I never thought alcohol could influence a city, and more importantly, a country. Its history was narrowly bested by the Abbey Theatre. "The Seafarer" was awesome.


Lex (right) and Ryan defy Mohr's winds before tower.

January 23

Kate Hufford: Robby took a day off yesterday but now he's back. Our driver is so awesome, and we've become really close with him as a group. Today was a travel day. We drove to Monsterboice to see ruins of an ancient tomblike structure. The passageway was so tight I was amazed that we could fit through it to get to the small, dome-like space underground. It was made entirely of stones without mortar and was buried under tons of earth, literally. Afterwards, we drove to several castles and an ancient gravesite. A wonderful day overall, except for the freezing cold.

Professor Dedaimia Whitney

JR Fowler: After a night at the theatre, we woke and had a long day of travel. We went to an ancient tomb, one that is 500 years older than the Pyramids. It was cold, but nice to be able to squeeze inside such an old building.

Sarah Hawes: We went around the country today. We went to an ancient tomb supposedly older than the Aztec tombs. I was nervous to go inside because the space was really small and dark, but I made it just fine.

The meal that roared

Hank Nuwer:  We are putting our liberal arts knowledge into practice today. First, we entered an old tomb which was wonderful and an architectural marvel of stacked boulders, but my wide, bulky shoulders stuck in the narrow passage of rock. I had people behind me trying to get through the one narrow opening and tore off the outer skin on my biceps and shoulders getting the rest of the way thru the rocky opening -- and -- found myself (kidding) fighting the worry that the guide would have to smear me with olive oil to get me in and out of the passageway. When we all huddled inside the tomb, the guide turned off the lights so we could see or imagine a shaft of light enter from the outside. Molly stayed outside because she hates confined spaces. I'm glad I went in. The scrapes will heal.

Hutch Hutchens Today I saw a site older than the Pyramids. We visited an ancient tomb. We saw monasteries, ancient crosses and castles. Part of "Braveheart" was filmed at one castle we saw. The countryside was beautiful.

Hutch, Sarah and Kate at Cliffs on West Coast

Rachel Friedman: Yay, I turned 21 today in Ireland. On the bus in the morning everyone sang Happy Birthday to me. We got to see moe of the countryside so I was excited. During our trip through the country we visited Newgrange. It was interesting to see this tomb because it was so old and because we can only guess why it was made.

Katie Stephens: I wish we could have gone to Trim Castle for a tour. It was amazing from the outside. Monsterboice was cool for the crosses. Canot wait for the Wicklow Mountains.

Aaron Hommel: Visited Newgrange and nearly got my fat A stuck between some rocks. We visited Monsterboice and met the cutest cat. It loved on Rachel Friedman and I a bit before running after some crows.



JR Fowler: After a night at the theatre, we woke up and had a long day of travel. We went to an ancient tomb, one that is 500 years older than the Pyramids. It was cold but nice to squeeze inside such an old structure. We then went to Monsterboice. This ancient monastery was one thing I really wanted to see while here. The tower was very cool and I wish I could go inside the ancient structure. Next was Trim Castle. This is the oldest castle in Ireland and is truly a sight. I wish we could have spent more time at the castle, but today was one of my favorite days.

Amanda Wray: Today Robbie told us what the Celtic crosses signify. The cross is Christian, representing Jesus's crucifixion and sacrifice for man. The circle that surrounds the part where the cross intersects in not Christian; it is Pagan and represents the sun. This greatly interests me that the Christians allowed pagans to retain part of their religion in order to make conversion easier, Robbie said. Typicall, Christians quickly dispense with other religions when they go into new areas. i wonder what other Christian symbols are mixtures of the old and the new.


January 24

Katie Stephens: I love Wicklow. The mountains were gorgeous, and I loved the view from the top by the lake.

Rachel Friedman: Robbie took us through the country again today. We ended up having to walk through the snow and I got me feet all wet but it was worth it. Robbie also took us to the house he would like to own some day. It was so beautiful.

Robin Connelly and Mrs. Connelly

Hank Nuwer: Our driver treated us to some dizzying and lovely views in the Wicklow Mountains (including a waterfall far away), and we had a chance to play in the snow or walkabout a bit.  I made a snow angel in the snow. My granddaughter Zoey would have loved to join me. The homes here are unbelievable -- many millions of dollars. Robby was rattling off the professions of some of the stars and business people with homes here. As always it made the touring more special to be informed. Kudos to Collins Bus, Robby and our wonderful Abbey and InContra Tours (You are the best, Roxan Chen!). The day ended at a museum, and I was as fresh and refreshed as the moon and the stars.



He patrols the tower and cliff's edge. Saddest part of job. Visitor suicides.



Kate Hufford: Part of me wants to go back, but part of me doesn't want to deal with the stress of the everyday world again. I much prefer worrying about accidentally falling off a mountain vs. worrying about grades, school and gossip. There's a carefree part of this trip that I know I'll never be able to recreate, and I'm going to miss it. We traveled around the country today visiting different historic sites. We saw the tallest waterfall in Ireland, Glendalough (Land of Two Lakes), and the mountains. Robby was terrified we were going to fall down the mountain face but everyone survived. We also went to the National Museum of Art. Everyone was too tired to enjoy it though. Today was way too long, 9-5.

Sarah Hawes: We traveled through Glendalough today. I took some amazing photos...

Aaron Hommell: Glendalough was a nice place, and the Wicklow Mountains had a charming effect on my lens. I am getting great photos. See my Facebook for more.

Hutch Hutchens The sights we saw today were breathtaking, We went up the hills and into the mountains. It was somewhat a warm day. We ended at another museum and learned more Irish history.

January 25-28

Katie Stephens: Kilmainham Gaol gave me goosebumps. Seeing the cells of the 1916 leaders made me a little tearyeyed. I felt very connected to Paddy Pearse after seeing his cell and his mother's notes. First time I've been brought to tears in a long time.

Rachel Friedman: Kilmainham Gaol was a really emotional part of our trip. I'm a really emotional person. So hearing the stories of those executed there made me tear up.

Hank Nuwer: Kilmainham Gaol made the deaths of the martyrs in 1916 all the more real for me. Amazing to me was that my mentor actually met Eamon de Valera in the 1960s at the presidential palace. Everyone was in a somber mood but one of our gang had used a finger to write "Indianapolis Colts" on side of bus. I was last one on. When they got off they saw the scribbling had now become "Buffalo Bills." Nyah, heh, ha.
Boy, did I screw up afterwards at a rest stop tho. I looked out to some inland lake and hurried to the bus to tell everyone I had seen a puffin. Robbie our guide said "Puffins aren't found inland. This I gotta see." So I led him and a few other disbelievers out to my vantage point. The "puffin" was a TIRE with a reddish striped sweater attached. But I only learned this after peering at it thru binoculars. Lex was on my case, as were the others--all good natured. Lex kept saying "Hey, I think I see a puffin, Hank," all along the road back home to our Dublin hotel. Blah. I hate puffins. Kidding.  It was a fun mistake.

Kate Hufford: For the record, random pieces of trash do not equal a puffin no matter what anyone from this trip tells you. Today was another travel day. First we visited the Kilmainham Gaol where all the rebel leaders of the Easter Rising were imprisoned and executed. I couldn't get over how cold it was inside, especially considering the fact that prisoners were only given one layer of clothing and a thin blanket. It wasn'y hygenic or had enough room for all the prisoners it held. Afterward we went to the cemetery where they all were buried. A tiny old Irishman popped out of nowhere and gave us a very detailed description of the [burial grounds]. There was also a small child using a tree as a bathroom. Robby said this was typical. To finish up we went to Malahigh Castle for a short guided tour. It looked more like a mansion on the inside than the medieval stonehold I had envisioned. Robbie informed us that were getting a wkeup call at 4:30 a.m. I calculated that we wouldn't arrive in Indy until 10 p.m. Dublin time. Roughly eight hours traveling? Great.

Amanda and Kate at the Yeats property

Hutch Hutchens Today was one of my most exciting days. We visited the Kilmainham Gaol. I was able to see the place where the people we learned about had died. I kind of put myself in their shoes. We toured Malahigh Castle that had great paintings and ancient furniture.

Aaron Hommell: Kilmainham Gaol was the coolest place I've ever been, but it was also one of the coldest places I have ever been. The location was where that 1916 Easter Rising leaders were executed. It was an emotionally charged atmosphere that left me chilled to the bone. To feel the way the Pearses or Connelly might have felt makes me nervous for the future.

Katie Stephens: Spending the day in Dublin was fun. The only part I didn't enjoy was getting sick and spending the rest of the evening in bed. I'm ready to go home, though I'll be sad to leave. I love Ireland.

Rachel Friedman: Today was a free day so we did more shopping. I spent way too much money but it was worth it. I'm kind of ready to go home now because I miss people. 

Rachel Friedman: I felt pretty secure traveling on my own. I'm not the best navigator but if I ever get lost I'm not too shy to ask others. After all the time we spent in Dublin I was pretty secure on my own. This was a great trip and I can't wait to come back.

Hank Nuwer: Our driver Robbie took us to the airport. We all gave him a hug and tips that were well earned. I keep meeting interesting people. I wandered around the airport and conversed with a woman from Lithuania.

Amanda Wry: We spent our last full day in Ireland today. I can't believe that I'm being forced to return home tomorrow; even after a week-and-a-half in Dublin, we still discovered new streets, walked across a new bridge, and met new people. I'm not ready to finish discovering Ireland.

Kate Hufford: At first I was really nervous about getting lost in Dublin. Everything was strange and new to me; all I could think about was missing the normalcy of home. However, as the days passed I grew more accustomed to Ireland and learned the ins and outs of the society. Now I'm just sitting back, marveling at the experiences I've had and things I've seen while here. It's truly been an awesome 12 days. I loved experiencing the culture and getting a taste of the history. You can't go anywhere without encountering something historical. The locals will even tell you tales about it. The best places to get a taste of the culture are the pubs in Galway and Dublin. If you're well received it's an experience you'll never forget. It was initially hard to adjust to, but Ireland as a whole is something I'll never forget. I'm so glas I set aside the money and worked hard to get here. I've really enjoyed myself and the group I traveled with.

Sarah Hawes: I like traveling to another country. I have traveled several times before so I was not worried or surprised by anything. It was a great experience.

Another stone for Prof. Comiskey


Hank Nuwer: Continued to meet fascinating people from other nations--even on the plane. Sat next to young woman named Maria Cuevas now working in Great Britain but headed back to her native Mexico. We talked the whole eight hours. Love learning about other lands and cultures. Maria misses her native land but gets back enough to keep family ties. I love all the adventures I had. Aaron and Katie gave me grief because I forgot to wear an undershirt under my baggy sweatshirt, and that meant a flash of belly as the guard accosted me. Darn. Everything else on the trip went wonderfully. I met a lot of penpals from Ireland, Poland, Mexico and England--oh and a couple Germans, too. But mainly I have a greater understanding of Ireland and its Troubles, 1916, and my mentor's love for this great country with such a sad but proud history. God bless, Ireland!


Amanda Wray: Well, I'm on the plane. Back to the U.S. I really do love the Midwest. I want to live there when I'm older, but I love traveling abroad. Specifically, I love Ireland. I have learned so much during my stay here. Even though I learned so much in this class at Franklin College, being in Ireland solidified that learning. Feeling Paddy Pearse's dejection as he left the GPO to surrender allowed me to understand more about what his fight meant for the Irish people.  Standing in the courtyard in Kilmainham Gaol where 1916 leaders were executed gnawed at my compassion. I want to know more. I want to experience more. I want these heroes from the past to come alive so that I can relate to them and understand them. That is just what this class has done for me. It has given me the sights to piece together with my knowledge so that I will never forget Ireland's troubled yet heroic history. I want to return to Ireland so that its history can continue to speak to me. I can read all I want about the IRA, castles, British landlords, the potato famine, fairies, but I can never truly experience them without being here.










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